Rote Molekulargastronomie in St. Louis

Ian Froeb berichtet in der Riverfront Times von einem Besuch in dem kürzlich eröffneten „Red“ in St. Louis, das neben der osteuropäischen Küche in einigen Gängen auch molekulinarische Prinzipien und Zutaten anwendet, wobei diese anscheinend seit der Eröffnung etwas in den Hintergrund gerückt sind

By the time I visited, however, the mint „cloud“ on the curried carrot soup was the only overt example of molecular gastronomy on the menu. In an interview with Sauce magazine, René Cruz explained that this „cloud“ is emulsified with xanthan gum (you know it as the ingredient that makes commercial ice cream so thick and, sometimes, gummy) and then served through a nitrous oxide-charged whipped-cream dispenser.

Interesting, yes, but how does it look and taste? In Red’s low light, the „cloud“ looked more or less exactly like a dollop of crème fraîche atop the soup. The flavor and texture were essentially like mint-flavored whipped cream, but the flavor was quickly subsumed by the aggressively spicy soup – so spicy that I couldn’t detect any carrot at all. It could have been anything in there.

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